A Tevis completion does not require a super horse with a super rider. It requires a well conditioned horse of almost any breed with a rider who has her head screwed on right and a big dream inside it. ~ Julie Suhr
The Tevis Cup is no ordinary endurance ride by any scope of the imagination. The Tevis is known as the “Grandaddy” of them all and billed by many riders as the “toughest 100 miles in the world”. Time Magazine recently published that the Tevis was in the top 10 of hardest endurance feats.
The Tevis draws riders like moths to flames. Knowing the risks, and there are many, we prepare as best as we can to tackle the challenges that lay ahead.
When one considers riding this ride, you better have a damn good horse and have a friend in Lady Luck.
I knew I had one of the two…a damn good horse in Farley, a little 14.3 Arabian of Crabbet breeding. He isn’t known as being the fastest horse on the trail but he is a finisher and will give you everything he has plus a little bit more. It would be easy to take advantage of this type of horse and I try my best not to.
So how did I get to the Tevis Cup in California with a Florida bred horse? A fluke!
My friend Debbie Parsons and her horse Boomer were headed out as she has dreamed of riding this ride for many years. She has crewed for others and had hiked parts of the trail. She has a book of stats that I think she has memorized. Horses travel better when there is a buddy horse which she found out in 2008, the first time she made the attempt. Boomer’s lack if appetite and thirst brought him to California a bit too lean for Debbie’s comfort zone. Unfortunately wild fires cancelled the ride for the first time in its over 50 year history.
She and Boomer rode the Big Horn 100 instead. They completed.
After riding the Longstreet Charge 75 together in May of this year and with the horses pacing so well together I had made the comment that I wish I could join her on her journey. She also thought that would be great and we started to hatch a plan.
I presented our idea to my boss and husband both whom thought it was too long to be gone (3 weeks). Ahhh, but there is always a Plan B…
Susan Wilson suggested that I fly while Debbie drives the horses. Hmm, why that could work couldn’t it? And it did. Both the boss and the hubby were more receptive to 5 days of absence vs. 3 weeks and the flight wasn’t too expensive once I applied my miles credit.
Ohh… but the expense! The expense to travel to California was going to take some creativity. Thankfully, I have friends, family and business associates that supported me with more than just their good wishes. My Ferrier, my vet and feed store donated goods and services and many others donated cash and gas cards. I can’t thank everyone enough as every bit was accepted and put to use.
We met Debbie & Boomer after work on Friday, July 16th in Hahira, GA and she hit the road at 6AM on the 17th taking I-80 once she reached Illinois with her final destination being the Auburn Fairgrounds. Her trip was almost uneventful. There were 2 major accidents on the first day holding her up an hour each time plus she fell out of the trailer and sprung her ankle.
A little pain wasn’t going to stop Debbie from making this journey!
Debbie and the boys made it to Auburn on the 21st. The stalls are a roomy 20 x 15 which allows plenty of room to stretch and roll. This is also where our crew of 2 will meet up with us. Joe, Debbie’s brother will be coming from Washington and Sara Harrison, DVM has volunteered to be my crew. She lives in Auburn and will ride Farley on Friday with Debbie and Boomer. We want to make sure the boys know when they are home and give them an opportunity to experience the trail plus it gives Sara & Debbie time to get acquainted. Later that evening I got the call that I scored when enlisting Sara for our crew. That was good to know because I had no clue what I was going to get.
I flew into Sacramento on July 20th to meet up with Debbie and the boys. After a quick bite to eat we headed to the Auburn Fairgrounds which has been home since their arrival and now would be mine too. A borrowed cot from the Air Force in the barn aisle would be my sleeping quarters. It may sound primitive but it was very comfy and I could keep an eye on the boys through the night hours.
When we got to the barn, I was pleased to see that both horses looked great. In fact, I do believe Boomer has gotten larger! Apparently he thinks he is on a cruise! That or he remembered his last trip out and thought it wiser to eat. Plus the hay variety…alfalfa, orchard grass, peanut, oat grass. Yummy!
We walked around the fairgrounds and then to the finish line where other riders were doing the same. We all shared our aspirations with hopes that we would be in the 50% that finish the ride. I was interviewed by a reporter from Horse.com. She wanted to know why this ride draws riders from so far away as in our case, Florida. I explained that I was there because of Debbie and her dream to complete and that Karma seemed to be on my side. The flight was easy to book, the boss & hubby were ok and my horoscope almost dared me to go with the following: I was about to experience an amazing feat but it would take a lot of hard work to accomplish the goal. How could I not at least try?
Now let’s talk about the California hills. We should have asses of steel! And our legs should be damn fine too! If I never walk up another incline like the ones there, I’d be ok with that. And those were the easy ones. I just didn’t know it at the time. By the Sunday after the ride I was taking the long way to the shower house just to avoid the steeper grades!
Wednesday morning we saddled up and headed out to No Hands Bridge which is a little over 3 miles from the fairgrounds. What spectacular views. I took plenty of pictures but truly they do no justice to the actual beauty and altitude of the area. And of course you have to ride over the bridge without using your hands!
The American River far below was glistening in the sun while sunbathers enjoyed the cool waters lapping at their feet. Before the ride the dam will be closed so that the waters will be low enough to allow the horses a safe passage across to get to this point of the trail. At 95 miles the water will be refreshing to them and hopefully rejuvenate their weary legs to bring us to the finish line before the 5:15 AM cut off.
Back at the barn we settled for the rest of the day/evening with lots on the agenda for Thursday before heading up to Robie Park in Truckee on Friday. That evening was also the welcome BBQ. They are not from the south! No sweet tea, no BBQ sauce, and well, no BBQ! It was burgers and potato salad. And it was a fun social gathering. We met (or saw) legendary riders of the west coast, all friendly and sincere with their wishes that we complete. We had our Team Florida shirts on which helped prompt lots of conversation about our trip out. It was all in good spirits.
Thursday we met our crew for breakfast and to discuss our game plan. With Sara having previous experience as a vet at the ride it will make it a bit easier for Joe who knows 2 things about horses…which end eats and which end doesn’t! He’ll be the brawn, she’ll be the brain. Plus our little mascot, Princess Chili Willi Enchilada a rescue Chihuahua from Mexico and weighing in at 4 pounds tops.
Once we discussed the details of the day, Debbie and I were off to complete our chores. We get gas for the truck, groceries for the humans and more hay for the horses. The feed store sells125 pound bales of alfalfa or alfalfa/orchard grass mix for $12. Yup, you read that right. Can we get 10 bales back home somehow??
Friday morning comes quick enough and we head on up to Robie Park. Most of the camp left the night before but with the boys settled in the current routine, we saw no need to leave early. They would have to stand tied to the trailer at Robie while here they have plenty of room to move about.
Friday morning we head UP and UP to Robie Park in the California town of Truckee. I try in vain to get pictures of the signs showing the altitude changes…3000, 4000, 5000…on and on it went with the final altitude of 7200.
The turn into the park is a sharp one and an older gent seemed to think that would be the very best place to park his Audi. Wrong! Debbie about clipped him and with her heightened level of excitement, I am surprised she didn’t.
Then there was the next turn into the parking area. Oh boy! It snuck up on us and Debbie hit the brakes. And we slid. To the edge of the cliff. Let me repeat, TO THE EDGE OF THE FREAKIN’ CLIFF! Obviously we stopped but I started to wonder!
Robie Park is 169 acres with incredible views of the valley and Lake Tahoe below. Unfortunately I never got another opportunity to get up to the top to take pictures.
We were non-stop busy once we found our spot. We had to walk everywhere and I swear it was uphill both ways!
Once we got the horses settled, we registered; perused around the vendors who some would eventually separate us from our money and watched a few vet-ins to get a feel of what was expected. Every rider has to bring their tack and weigh in when vetting in.
So another hike (it’s no longer walking at this point) back with the horses and their tack.
The vetting in went well. Both horses seem to like the mountain air as the vet commented that at a 40 pulse, they didn’t seem to be fazed with the activity. Cards were all A’s for both horses.
We hike back UP to the trailer, tie the horses and hike back UP to the vendors where I purchase a Cool Vest for the canyons. Later I will find out that this would end up being the best investment of the day. Then we hike UP to the first time riders meeting. There is no down. If there is, we haven’t found it yet.
The new riders meeting was held by Kathy Perry a true veteran of the trail, a member of the Western States Trail Board and owner of 19 buckles after 35 attempts. She was after buckle number 20 with a borrowed horse. (She achieved her goal)
The information was good, if not logical for any endurance ride. There are riders who want to win and riders who want to complete. We are the latter. Ride fast where you can and ride slow where you need to. Don’t use up all of your horse on the first half of the ride. Enjoy the scenery and get out of the way of faster riders when safely possible. Try not to hold anyone back and hopefully you’ll get to the cut offs in time. Be careful in the bogs and don’t hesitate at Cougar Rock. Either do it or don’t. You can ride or hand walk your horse over Swinging Bridge. It does swing so most riders hand walk. Separate yourself from large groups. It kicks up more dust (and there is a lot of dust) and you have that much more time wasted waiting for a group to get through obstacles.
Bottom line: Do your best to get ‘er done.
You have the same chance as any other rider out there: 50%.
No matter who you are, only 50% will complete.
Another hike UP to the trailers to pack the crew bags, ready the saddles and settle Debbie’s nerves. Our crew has set up camp with the canopy, chairs, coolers and my cot. It really is nice to have crew! Another trailer has pulled in and has blocked the entry to where we were. Others were miffed but what are you going to do? Stupid people are everywhere.
I let Debbie diddle with everything as she had a plan on how she wanted things prepared for the vet checks. I drank a beer and about 6 pints of water. The altitude makes you thirsty! Farley drank about 15 gallons of water! We still had the mandatory ride meeting at 7 and that was closing in fast. Our crew went to their meeting at 5 and then back with us to the 7 meeting.
We took Joe’s shortcut to the ride meeting. It may have been shorter but he failed to mention that it was a bit more challenging. We about died laughing all the way down.
Hell, at least it was downhill!
The mandatory ride meeting was a full house of 184 riders and their crews. Introductions were made along with the explanation of the starting pens. 70 riders would be in Pen 1 and the remainder in Pen 2. The faster teams would be in Pen 1. Had a complaint that you weren’t in Pen 1? Too bad. The start would be controlled and you MUST be at the start line by 5:30 or you don’t go and there is no refund.
Be considerate of the volunteers & follow the rules for each station or get DQ’d.
Vet criteria was briefly discussed along with some trail conditions. NO engines are to start until 5:30 AM or the rider gets DQ’d. Get some rest & have a good ride.
Now rest was the elusive mistress of the night. Although I wasn’t “keyed up” I couldn’t help but toss & turn as I thought about what we were about to embark upon.
Would I be asking too much of Farley? Of myself? Are the trails as dangerous as told by others who have ridden them before? Would we finish? Would Debbie?
She really wants that buckle.
The moon is full and the stars are close enough to almost touch. Sleep finally comes but it is not restful nor is it long. We awake to the following schedule:
3AM. Feed the horses.
3:30 AM get dressed
4:00 AM get saddled
4:30 AM get ready to go
5:00 AM go to the pens
5:15 AM Trail is OPEN!!
Our most incredible TEVIS journey begins!!!
Past riders have suggested breaking up the trail into 3 parts. The first 36 miles would be the hardest due to the rocks, cliffs and bogs up and through the Granite Chief Wilderness Area (my favorite part of the entire ride) The second 32 miles would be the hottest as we tackle the climbs out of the canyons and the last would be the darkest which would make it slow going at parts but the trail footing would be better than the previous two legs. All 100 miles have drop offs from the narrow trails. Most have some sort of switch back.
The Granite Chief Wilderness Area was SPECTACULAR. I tried to take pictures as we trotted or walked along. The steep climb up from Squaw Valley at an elevation of 6200 feet brought us up to Emigrant Pass at 8700 feet which had Farley panting & sweating in the cool morning. He recovered quickly once we reached flat land and trotted easily without my pushing him. We made sure to look at all of the views including looking back down into Squaw Valley and up at the looming Granite Chief and Watson’s Monument. There are photographers at every scenic point along with well wishers some of which look like they are still mining for gold. There was no shortage of characters on and off the saddle!
Onward we move following Emigrant Pass as we head closer to Granite Chief. The rocks and boulders are many as the trail weaves through. The bogs aren’t bad due to the recent snow melt moving along versus sitting. In southeastern standards they were hardly anything and very short. Our next leg of the journey would take us to the infamous Cougar Rock.
Here you have a choice, go over the rock or around. Debbie asks which we are doing.
With no line waiting to go over and big arrows painted on the rocks indicating the right path to take it was a no brainer…the rock! Farley heads up first with me clicking him to encourage him. There’s got to be goat in his bloodlines as he handled the climb like a pro. Debbie follows with Boomer yelping a big WOO-HOO once at the top. It was not 5 seconds after we heard “oh shit” and a loud tumble. The photographer perched on the ledge lost his footing and fell about 20+ feet. Luckily he survived but not without multiple breaks. Debbie’s picture would be the last for the day.
Next we climb forward and along Elephants Trunk. Here the views are as breathtaking as those previous. We head on to Lyon’s Ridge and Red Star where we will have our first Gate and Go at 28.5 miles. Farley pulses in after getting a big gulp of water and alfalfa at 44. We go to trot out and are called back! Yikes! Seems he “trots funny” and I need to represent. I ask Debbie to watch and she says that’s how he trots so back over we go.
We get an A-OK and out we go. That was close!
Our first 1 hour hold is at Robinson Flat at 36 miles and an elevation of 6700. It’s a zoo as many riders are coming in together. At this point Debbie is about 10 minutes ahead of me but decides to wait allowing Boomer to eat a little longer. Our crew area is up on the hill and away from the cluster below. Both horses continue to do well and their riders are also.
We’re out at 12:44 and heading to Dusty Corners. This portion of the trail is really dusty and once again we get separated. I pull back to let the dust settle and to ride in the front of another group versus the back of Debbie’s group. In hindsight this was time mistake number one. The trail continues to be enjoyable and reminds me of Longstreet Charge in a way. Good footing abounds and the climbs are manageable. We head into Last Chance, the 50 mile mark of the ride at 4500 elevation for a Gate & Go. I can see Debbie up ahead and wave. We leave at 3 PM. That’s a 9 hour 50. Not too shabby so far.
Once we leave here we head down (finally a down). Is it this portion of the trail that we trot on Pucker Point? If it was, I didn’t realize it. There was always enough room to trot without fear of falling off. The views were fantastic and you want to make sure to look down to the American River because eventually, that is where you will be, nearly 5000 feet below. There are 36, maybe 38 switchbacks that lead you in and back out of the Canyons. And they are hot. Luckily I was smart and bought the cooling vest that miraculously kept me comfortable during that entire section. Soon we see the Swinging Bridge. I thought I would ride Farley over it but Farley thought otherwise. I have never gotten out of a saddle so quickly! This would be time mistake number two. My saddle slipped and with the altitude zapping me of any energy, I hadn’t the strength to get it back up without help. And help would not come easily when you are racing an unforgiving clock. Riders want to make cutoffs and having the trail blocked only makes matters worse. I finally enlisted the help of an older gentleman who got me in the saddle and back on course.
It was shortly after that we passed where Skip’s horse tripped and fell to her death the previous year. Her remains and saddle are still there as a sad reminder. Someone has spread flowers marking the point. Pink roses. As we move forward another 100 yards past that area we see that another horse has fallen. Luckily it is standing and the rider atop of a rock is visibly shaken but not injured. We must forge on. Our prayers are with both. We wonder aloud why there? The footing is good and the trail has not gotten too steep.
All too soon the climbs out of the canyons truly begin. There won’t be many who will trot this section and those that could you had to marvel at. More than once Farley stopped questioning my judgment and to catch his breath. He cherished the switch backs if only to get a short rest before we continue the climb up. We finally reach Devils Thumb where we see that many of the riders who had to pass us at Swinging Bridge are in the vet lines. At this point we have climbed from an elevation of 2800 to close to 4400. Farley is hungry and thirsty and dives into the water trough. A volunteer brings him a bucket of mash as we continue to wait. A stallion has been separated by his girlfriend and is not happy. His attitude almost risks her disqualification. Luckily she gets a handle on him.
Surprisingly we vet in easily with a 60/56 pulse. The vet was pleased and his trot continues to be good. We are waived through to the next point, Michigan Bluff at 62.5 miles.
We now have another canyon to negotiate and although there aren’t as many switchbacks it still is no piece of cake. From Devils Thumb to Deadwood is flat considering before we head down to Eldorado Creek at an elevation of 1700 then climb back up to Michigan Bluff at 3500. I continue to allow Farley to set his pace. He trots easily on the flats and crawls on the climbs. I couldn’t do it and truly appreciate how hard he working for me. I see riders that have done this ride multiple times and although the going is slow we are still ahead of the cut-offs if only by 30 minutes. A little too close for comfort but it’s what I have to work with. I was hoping to make time on the latter part of the trail under the glow of a full moon. Ha…how wrong I would be about that.
The trail from Eldorado Creek to Michigan Bluff was 2.5 miles long and took us 2 hours then up to Chicken Hawk that is only 1.50 miles but once again there is another incline. It is slight compared to previous inclines. This would be my time mistake number three. Once I finally arrived at Chicken Hawk with hardly any time to spare, I thought it was the vet check. Here I sat upset that my crew was gone and there was no food or water for Farley or me.
A volunteer noticing my angst suggested that my crew is probably at the “vet check”. What a dumbass I was. Off we go, really trying to boogie. I was also the last rider they allowed out at this point. Twenty riders behind me were left to call it a day.
Finally and I do mean finally, I get to Forest Hill. It is 8:15 PM and Farley has to be vetted through by 8:30 or we are over time. Every person we passed gave us the time. Sara wanted to say something but she knew they were only trying to be helpful. After a good hosing to cool off Farley, he made pulse right at 5:25. Whew…
The vet was happy with him overall although his loins were starting to show soreness.
There were quite a few riders that were vetting through still but I was last. Dead last.
Farley dug into mash and hay while I cleaned up. I changed my clothes, washed my face and reapplied ointment to raw areas but I could not get my energy up. I drank an energy drink, added more e-lytes and did everything that had helped in the past yet I just could not rejuvenate myself. This should have been a clue to call it a night. But I was still 30 minutes ahead of cut-off and I thought that this part would be dark but not as hard.
WAY WRONG.
We left Forest Hill on time and trotted easily through town. Most of the well wishers had since gone back to playing pool & drinking beer but there were still a few heralding your arrival and wishing you well. The road was well lit as was the trail coming off the road.
Unfortunately we trotted right by the turn and kept going straight into the dark night.
And I stopped. I turned us around and went back to the last glo-stick. The turn was obviously marked we just trotted right by it.
And then our ride went to hell.
Yes, there was a full moon. BUT, the tree cover blocked every bit of that moon. There was a glo-stick at each switchback and every ½ mile whether you needed it or not. There are drop offs that land you into the river thousands of feet below or any one of the ledges before hitting the river very far below. I was alone. And for the first time all day, I was terrified. I tried to let Farley pick his way but Farley had no intention on going any faster and when he heard the water and wanted to go to it, I got off to start hand walking. I figured I could walk 4 mph getting me into Franciscos before the cut off. I was wrong.
WAY WRONG.
Thank God for the drag riders. I had been leading Farley for quite sometime when the drag riders caught up with us. “Hello Rider…do you need help?” I had replied “No, we’re good. We’re going to WALK to the next vet check.” Hmmm, ok.
“Hello rider, are you ok?” Sure we’re just going to keep on walking.
“Hello rider, it’s going to get really steep up here do you still want to walk?”
“Hell NO, but I am too tired to get back on.”
They got me back on and with Farley having a lead horse he was happy to trot along until we started with more switchbacks and more climbs. We were back to a crawl and he was getting sore and I was becoming more exhausted.
We (they) decided to pony Farley to give him some rest and I would ride one of the drag horses while that rider walked. Horse option number one I was quite sure was trying to put me over the side. I wanted off of her QUICKLY. I was then put on a nice Kentucky Mountain horse and we walked on. I was told I had to continue to talk because if I fell asleep I would fall to my death. That would suck. I kept talking.
When the trees would clear and the trail opened up it was absolutely stunning. The moon cast its glow onto the river below. It was magical. I was also hallucinating but I never said anything because I didn’t want to be pulled. Like we had a chance to make time!
We finally made it to Franciscos at 4:15 AM. It was a long walk for all of us. Farley was looked at and other than being tired and a bit sore; he was no worse for wear. He would still have to walk 3+ more miles to his trailer ride back to the fairgrounds but at least he could eat and drink here before heading on. I would get a truck ride back.
I made it back at 5:15 AM. Farley was there by 7 AM.
Unfortunately your time in doesn’t count when you get a truck ride back!
My crew was thrilled I was there because I was lost as far as the record keepers knew. It wasn’t until moments before my arrival that they found out I was with the drag riders. I cannot thank that group of three enough. I would have camped on that trail, been eaten by bears or cougars before daylight…or so I had imagined.
Debbie was in the stall messing with Boomer when I walked over to the barn. She had finished! Her goal attained and in plenty of time. She rode her victory lap and I missed it. I also missed her getting her buckle the next day as I fell asleep on the hay bale.
Of the 184 starters, 90 completed.
There is no gloating from the finishers. They had Lady Luck in their pocket that day. They know it. They also know that this trail will beckon you to return, to try again. To forget the pain and agony of your mistakes and fears and to forge on by the memories of what was great about it and what you succeeded at. You’ll find yourself sitting and thinking and rethinking about what you might be able to improve upon the “next time”.
You’ll also wonder if you let anyone down by not completing. We made it to 85 miles and had to call it a day. I let my fear take over and alone I did not know how to regain the courage needed. I hope I didn’t let anyone down.
Overall, I am proud of how far Farley and I made it.
So someday I will return. When first asked the Sunday following the ride whether I would make the attempt again, I quickly said NO! But I think I answered to quickly. I may just have to tackle it again if for only to beat the California loop.
You will also hear from those who have ridden Tevis that somehow after riding on this trail it changes you. That attempting to take on this challenge makes you stronger and braver and makes you realize that there is more to life. That there are more challenges to accept. And you realize you won’t fear the pain or the chance of failure.
Success is not final, failure is not fatal. It is the courage to continue that counts.
So many do not sleep the night before Tevis. I have been one of them. Often up late, fussing with ones "stuff", to make sure everything is ready, and then getting to bed late, and tossing and turning. I was in bed not long after the sun set, and slept pretty good. Had everything all laid out for in the morning, so when that alarm went off, I crawled out, gave Hank his breakfast mash, and went back inside to dress. Drank a protein drink, ate a piece of cinnamon bread, and headed back out to tack up Hank. I was still feeling rather calm as I swung up into the saddle, to head to the start. In 2005 and 2006, a friend crewed for us. I told her when she decided to ride, she had the choice of me riding with her, or crewing for her. Earlier this year, she had said she was going to enter, and wanted me to ride with her. So, holding that promise, I sent in my entry. Tevis has two different start groups. Pen one, the faster riders, who are there to generally to place well, and pen two, for those of us who ride to finish. My friend was helping to lead out the second pen to the start line, and we tried to fall in as close to them as possible. But in the dark, early morning hour, with 100's of horses on the trail, it is tough to always stick together. Riders tensions can run high, and they start getting pushy and excited. Hank was not jacked up, and the walk to the actual start line was pretty uneventful. We had a slight wait with standing still before the trail was opened at 5:15, and then we were starting our trek towards our destination: Auburn. Between our goal was dust, dirt, mountains, rocks, heat, and some of the most challenging trail ever ridden. Statistics show only about half of the riders would finish. One can only hope they stay safe, and the horse healthy. In 2005, Hank finished, and then in 2006, he coliced at Michigan Bluff. While we don't want anything to happen to our horse, a metabolic issue is harder to deal with mentally than a lameness issue, at least for me. So while I knew Hank has seemed better than ever since the colic surgery in Aug. of 2008, this was the one area I was being extra aware of during the ride.
