We arrived at Robie Park on Thursday, somewhat late in the day – but with plenty of time to set up camp for the boys and take them for a walk around one of the largest ridecamps I’ve ever been to. Running into other NW riders was a welcome sight as it was nice to see familiar faces amongst so many strangers. Friday we took the boys out for a “leisurely” ride out the start for about 3 or 4 miles. Ash was doing pretty good till we turned back for the camp and then I had my hands full. Throwing and shaking his head and cantering in place gave me some concern for how the start might go. I’d been given a Pen 1 card and knew that I could get into a group of fast movers. The start of the Tevis ride is a downhill grade for a few miles. Part of my endurance riding with Ash is that I usually never leave with a pack of horses, choosing instead to walk out of camp on a loose rein and on top of a horse with his brain intact. There were 160 horses leaving that next morning and this wild boy under me was making me more than a bit nervous for the 5:15 AM start.
Our vet in went fast, but was confusing with all the lines you had to go through. Ash’s HR was 33 – the vet was from Australia and I thought he said 53 and about had a heart attack. I looked up and saw Dr. Root and had to give him a hug – it was so nice to see him. As he was a treatment vet this year, I did tell him that I sure hoped I didn’t see him on Saturday! I slept poorly that night, probably getting about 3 hours of sleep total, waking an hour before my 3:45 AM alarm. Ash seemed calm while tacking up, but then he usually looks pretty mellow with me just walking into his corral and throwing the saddle up without tying him, but I know that he’s very aware of what is happening and that we’ll be heading out soon. Once he was tacked up and I was mounting up, I could see his shoulder muscles start to shake, a sure sign he’s anxious. Dean, Tiffany and I walked as casually as we could (Tiffany’s horse Rye looked ready to launch straight up but he stayed calm) down to Pen 1 and waited for them to release us to the long walk to the start. We could hear when Pen 2 was released and before you knew it, both pens of horses were waiting on the road, spread out over likely about ¼ mile stretch. It was relatively quiet, with just a few horses in our close proximity circling and getting a bit antsy, Ash being one that needed a few circles and flexing. The Blakely family was directly in front of us and it occurred to me how difficult it might be to bring a family of four and all their gear and horses to this ride, keeping track of their children on a fast and dangerous trail. Thankfully those kids ride like centaurs and do not appear fazed by fact that they are surrounded by 156 other horses and riders.
When we were finally released to head out, amazingly Ash kept his cool. We parked him behind Rye as Tiff wanted a familiar horse behind them for the start. At some point prior to the climb out of Squaw Valley, Ash and I got in front of Dean and Tiffany. I was looking forward to a hill to take a bit of the edge of off Ash, I’m not a huge fan of extended downhill trotting but that first 10 miles you just don’t have much of a choice. The climb up to Emigrant pass was beautiful, views to die for and a good spot for Ash to stretch out and get into his big working trot. At the first water near the top, you couldn’t look in any direction without seeing riders and horses taking an opportunity to have a pee break. There is not much modesty at the Tevis ride.....
The worst section of the ride came pretty quickly, the Granite Chief Wilderness is where the infamous bogs are. They didn’t seem bad to me, perhaps this year was better than others, but the fact that we were in a group of 8-12 horses, going at speed, downhill and with slick, flat granite rocks in the trail made me very nervous. Ash’s back feet slipped off a couple of them and made me cringe. There just wasn’t really any way to slow down in that crowd, you could just hang on and try to stay balanced and cue him for turns in advance. At the first Gate/Go at Red Star, I asked for a courtesy pulse, he was hanging at 64 which is unusual for Ash, but then he pee’d and immediately was down to 60 so off to the vet we went where he was down farther to 54 – passing his VC with good scores and just slightly low on skin tenting, which is not unusual for him. By the time we were on the approach to Cougar Rock, there were only a couple horses ahead of us. I watched them go over Cougar Rock fairly easily and the hill up to the rocks didn’t seem too bad, Ash felt super strong and as he’s pretty surefooted I opted not to go around. I didn’t have to encourage him, he headed for the rock like he’d done it before. I barely had to steer the way the arrows tell you to go and before I knew it we were over the top. I was pretty sure we didn’t get that awesome flying leap photo, he seemed to just step up and over the top with ease. I remember the photographer telling us that he looked great.
Other than the Granite Chief area, the first section of Tevis reminded me so much of our NW Renegade ride, riding on ridges with views from both sides. At around 10 am we cruised into Robinson Flat where our crews were waiting. Becky Vital and her son Justin packed our tack, fed us, sponged us and got us back out on the trail after our one hour hold where Ash had pulsed down immediately. Once out on the road/trail we just cruised along, partly with Diane Steven’s on Titan, her gorgeous two time Tevis horse. We were both wearing tights she’d made and I think we about blinded some of the number takers along the way! Ash and I caught up with a small group right before Pucker point, the man in front of me letting me know it was coming so I could get my camera out for some photo ops. I’d watched the YouTube video on this section and thought I’d recognize it, but if I hadn’t been told I might not have know where I was, it just didn’t look quite the same from the back of a horse. If you’ve ever ridden in the NW region at a place called Kalama Horse Camp, the Fossil and Cinnamon trails have some similar steep and rocky trails. I was feeling right at home and thinking we might actually have a chance if I could just keep Ash from pulling me and taking charge. To this point he was still being a bit of a brat, I had told Becky that I’d taken the H off his name and replaced it with another S.
There were two water tanks just about a mile from Last Chance but Ash didn’t want to drink and when we got to Last Chance he only had a small sip. I decided to slow down a bit and this is pretty much where Tiffany and Sandy caught us. Ash vetted through fine and then the three of us continued out on to the trail together and hitting the canyons during the heat of the day. We went down to the water under the swinging bridge, Barbara Suhr White had said not to bypass it, but go down and let the horses drink and cool off before their hike up to the top of Devil’s Thumb. Lynne Glazer was also there taking photos and I wasn’t going to miss the opportunity to have photos by her! The bridge swayed a bit but nothing bad, all the horses walked across it quite nicely and then we started the long hot climb. There is a volunteer water stop at the top, very nice people helping sponge and fill water bottles. I had a small meltdown when a volunteer accidentally gave my two large water bottles to someone else who didn’t want to give them back. She finally gave me one of them, but by then the lack of sleep and emotional toll had taken over and I just couldn’t stop from crying. Sandy saved me by telling me she’d lost it at Robinson and had cried AND threw up, making me laugh. I just didn’t want to part with my water, knowing I’d be needing it for the next canyon. The next climb was hotter, fewer trees for cover and while not as steep, it seemed longer.
We hit bees a couple of times along these sections, taking off at a fast trot whenever the horses started stomping. The Blakely’s were in front of us with Wasch off tailing – both groups had hit the bees and since Wasch was at the rear and going slower, I’m pretty sure he got the short end of that stick. At Chicken Hawk Ash was drinking great again and pulsed down into the 40’s almost immediately. The vet there complimented me on how good he looked. Foresthill was a welcome sight and we got there around 7 pm I think, so we were all pretty pumped that we’d be leaving on the California loop in the light. Having a crew was such a luxury, Tiffany and I had a quick shower and change of clothes while our horses were in excellent hands, being fed, sponged and rested. At 8 pm we left Foresthill, heading down the street where people were sitting on lawn chairs, waving and wishing us good luck. We were excited to leave and were laughing and waving back to our adoring fans. We felt like superstars, trotting down the road towards the trail, locals on either side, people coming out of businesses to wish us well. In our state of euphoria we nearly missed our turn – how embarrassing would it have been to keep waving and have to back track? That set us off again into fits of laughter, we rounded the corner and a large black cat crossed right in front of us. Not to be deterred, Sandy shouted out that she was pretty sure in the failing light, it was just a “brown” cat, certainly not a black nor an unlucky one!
The moon was up, the trail was dim and we decided we’d better get a move on, taking advantage of whatever light we still had. Ash headed for the front, his favorite place is to lead, even when he’s tired and once it got dark he took charge and seemed to say “hang on up there little lady, and try not to spook”. It hadn’t really cooled down much – maybe into the 80’s but the horses picked up the pace and we cruised at a trot all over those hills till there really wasn’t much left of the light. Switchbacks in low light are interesting and a bit scary. It was very dark when we hit Cal 2 and all the glowsticks hanging in the woods. All the horses vetted through fine at Francisco’s – we were feeling like we were ready to have the ride be over at this point and the horses were ravenous, we felt bad having to make them leave their lovely mashes and hay to head back out there in the dark. But the river crossing was coming and I was looking forward to it, like a little kid waiting to ride the log flume at Disneyland. The volunteer spot here at the river had music, people playing bean bag toss games, sleeping in tents, lights all around, we wanted to stay and hang out with them, they looked like they were having a blast! The river approach looked like an airport runway – with glow sticks positioned like a lane about 10’ wide. I really wanted our photo here but know it’s not an ideal spot for photographers. Tiffany’s horse Rye led us in and we all let out a holler when the water went up to our calves. The horses plowed across the water while we wondered how deep it might really get. The volunteers heard us and cheered us on our way across and up the bank on the other side.
We hit bees a couple of times along these sections, taking off at a fast trot whenever the horses started stomping. The Blakely’s were in front of us with Wasch off tailing – both groups had hit the bees and since Wasch was at the rear and going slower, I’m pretty sure he got the short end of that stick. At Chicken Hawk Ash was drinking great again and pulsed down into the 40’s almost immediately. The vet there complimented me on how good he looked. Foresthill was a welcome sight and we got there around 7 pm I think, so we were all pretty pumped that we’d be leaving on the California loop in the light. Having a crew was such a luxury, Tiffany and I had a quick shower and change of clothes while our horses were in excellent hands, being fed, sponged and rested. At 8 pm we left Foresthill, heading down the street where people were sitting on lawn chairs, waving and wishing us good luck. We were excited to leave and were laughing and waving back to our adoring fans. We felt like superstars, trotting down the road towards the trail, locals on either side, people coming out of businesses to wish us well. In our state of euphoria we nearly missed our turn – how embarrassing would it have been to keep waving and have to back track? That set us off again into fits of laughter, we rounded the corner and a large black cat crossed right in front of us. Not to be deterred, Sandy shouted out that she was pretty sure in the failing light, it was just a “brown” cat, certainly not a black nor an unlucky one!
The moon was up, the trail was dim and we decided we’d better get a move on, taking advantage of whatever light we still had. Ash headed for the front, his favorite place is to lead, even when he’s tired and once it got dark he took charge and seemed to say “hang on up there little lady, and try not to spook”. It hadn’t really cooled down much – maybe into the 80’s but the horses picked up the pace and we cruised at a trot all over those hills till there really wasn’t much left of the light. Switchbacks in low light are interesting and a bit scary. It was very dark when we hit Cal 2 and all the glowsticks hanging in the woods. All the horses vetted through fine at Francisco’s – we were feeling like we were ready to have the ride be over at this point and the horses were ravenous, we felt bad having to make them leave their lovely mashes and hay to head back out there in the dark. But the river crossing was coming and I was looking forward to it, like a little kid waiting to ride the log flume at Disneyland. The volunteer spot here at the river had music, people playing bean bag toss games, sleeping in tents, lights all around, we wanted to stay and hang out with them, they looked like they were having a blast! The river approach looked like an airport runway – with glow sticks positioned like a lane about 10’ wide. I really wanted our photo here but know it’s not an ideal spot for photographers. Tiffany’s horse Rye led us in and we all let out a holler when the water went up to our calves. The horses plowed across the water while we wondered how deep it might really get. The volunteers heard us and cheered us on our way across and up the bank on the other side.
The next section seemed long, Ash still leading and still pulling on me. I thought at some point I should check his shoes, for some reason I remembered thinking he might have stepped on his front shoe and sure enough, his right front Ground Control shoe was gone. Thankfully I had a Renegade spare and put that on, but then I worried all the way to the Lower Quarry that it might come off, that I’d have to backtrack to find it or that he’d not be sound for his trot out. He felt fine, no head bobbing but I worried nonetheless. The girls kept talking – likely to distract me. He vetted in at Lower Quarry with a HR in the 40’s, trotted out sound and was digging into the mashes provided by the volunteers like he was going to eat the bottom out of the tubs. It was very hard to drag him away, but there was only 6 miles left and we needed to get a move on. I think it was around 1:30 AM. At this point Ash was still pretty much leading and when we walked he started doing this long, running walk, it felt like he was gaited. Ash has never walked out like that before and Tiffany and Sandy complimented him on being such a fast walker, I’m not sure they believed me, but at home he’s really very pokey at the walk. He was motivated and once we hit the spot we’d pre-rode, he just seemed to put it in gear and move out. Tani Bates would be so proud of him!
The Renegade boot stayed on, I could hear its plastic hollow sound and had the girls check on it occasionally for me just to be safe. I did not want to make us get in any later than we had to, but on the other hand, we wanted sound horses so we were trying not to rush and do anything stupid at this point. My mind was starting to play tricks on me, I thought I saw a dead elk where there was just a fallen log and then a dead possum – I didn’t tell the girls, I didn’t want them to think a mad woman was leading them to their demise!
The Renegade boot stayed on, I could hear its plastic hollow sound and had the girls check on it occasionally for me just to be safe. I did not want to make us get in any later than we had to, but on the other hand, we wanted sound horses so we were trying not to rush and do anything stupid at this point. My mind was starting to play tricks on me, I thought I saw a dead elk where there was just a fallen log and then a dead possum – I didn’t tell the girls, I didn’t want them to think a mad woman was leading them to their demise!
As we came through the final mile and up the hill into the fairgrounds, the crews waiting could see the lights and started hooting and hollering. The lights and voices were so comforting. The boys had a small drink and then we headed down to the stadium for our vet checks. The stadium seemed so small compared to watching the videos, Sherri and Diana from American Trail Gear stayed up to watch us come in, Diana snapping photos from the stands. The announcer was giving our biography and saying we were first time finishers, then Sandy, also a first time finisher, then Tiffany, also a first time finisher – he sounded a bit amazed by the time he got through the three of us. Prior to the ride, we were talking to someone about it being a 50% completion rate at Tevis. We were informed that for first timers, it was more like 30% so statistically only one of us should have completed. Riding together, while unplanned, likely contributed to our success. We encouraged and comforted each other and the horses seemed to like the company as well. Ash would stop when he got a bit ahead of the boys and look over his shoulder and wait till he could see them, then off he’d go again looking for the next glowstick. As we rounded the stadium at a trot, suddenly my horse, who’d trotted 100 miles, crossed a river, went over bridges, climbed cliffs, ran from bees and faced 110+ degree heat, took one look at that chalk line and said “no way, we aren’t allowed to cross those, we’ve been avoiding them all day”, and proceeded to spook to the left. Our final vet check went smoothly, Ash’s CRI was 48/48 and he trotted out and back sound, getting all A’s on his vet card.
The Tevis ride is very humbling, from the historical significance of the trail, to the number of volunteers that take care of the riders and horses, from the organizational skills required to put on an event this size, to the massive donations required to feed and take care of all the horses. The horses keep going, carrying us all day, giving all they can give and being the very best trail partners. Our families, crews and friends watched our progress and cheered us on. Some riders may not make it to the end, but every mile is a gift and riding the Tevis is an experience none will likely forget. The next day at the awards, Tiffany, Sandy and I went up for our certificates and Legacy buckles that had been donated by former recipients. I could hardly wait to open mine and see who had won it the first time around. I was shocked to see the name I’d wanted to see most, Barbara Suhr White. We had emailed each other, sending lists back and forth, Barbara giving me advice about sections of the trail and things she’s learned over her many years riding the Tevis trail. After the awards I introduced myself to her, hugged her and was so composed that I promptly burst into tears. I just wish I’d thought to get a photo! She had ridden Ss Riftez to a 24th place finish in 1985 and now her buckle is shared with me and the best endurance horse I’ve ever ridden – my little Ash.
The Tevis ride is very humbling, from the historical significance of the trail, to the number of volunteers that take care of the riders and horses, from the organizational skills required to put on an event this size, to the massive donations required to feed and take care of all the horses. The horses keep going, carrying us all day, giving all they can give and being the very best trail partners. Our families, crews and friends watched our progress and cheered us on. Some riders may not make it to the end, but every mile is a gift and riding the Tevis is an experience none will likely forget. The next day at the awards, Tiffany, Sandy and I went up for our certificates and Legacy buckles that had been donated by former recipients. I could hardly wait to open mine and see who had won it the first time around. I was shocked to see the name I’d wanted to see most, Barbara Suhr White. We had emailed each other, sending lists back and forth, Barbara giving me advice about sections of the trail and things she’s learned over her many years riding the Tevis trail. After the awards I introduced myself to her, hugged her and was so composed that I promptly burst into tears. I just wish I’d thought to get a photo! She had ridden Ss Riftez to a 24th place finish in 1985 and now her buckle is shared with me and the best endurance horse I’ve ever ridden – my little Ash.
